Careno is a true hidden gem with everything you might be looking for in a personal secret haven, including yet another glorious Romanesque church (San Martino), a beach for a cool swim in the lake, a small restaurant specialising in fish and a jetty for one of the boats from the Navigazione Laghi to take you back home after your prolonged taste of heaven. You should allow a good two hours but longer, if like me, you are distracted by foraging for chestnuts, walking along Lezzeno’s glorious lakefront or possibly stopping half way to eat at the Baita La Morena. One of these, depending on the time of the year, could well be collecting chestnuts. This second option is both more interesting as a walk and less onerous even though the uphill section is not for the faint-hearted. Como’s Magic Light Festival – Citta dei Balocchi 2016/17, Lenno and Villa Balbianello in Early Spring, Sentee di Sort (From Rovenna to Moltrasio), A Walk in the Cosia Valley and Camnago Volta, Argegno to Argegno: Up and Down the Telo Valley, Brienno’s Botanic Path – Sentiero Botanico, Civiglio to Civiglio: A Circular Walk on the Slopes of Mount Uccellera, Climbing Monte Bisbino – Como’s Local Mountain, Intrepid Exploration: Brienno to Laglio on the Via Regina, Parco Spina Verde: Walking the Border Back to Como, Quick Walks out of Como 1: San Donato – Garzola, Quick Walks out of Como 2: Parco Spina Verde, San Donato to Camnago Volta: Opening up a Circular Route to and from Como, San Fermo to Como – in the footsteps of Garibaldi, Strada Regia: From Pognana to Nesso (and back), Walking the Greenway and the Antica Via Regina, Walking the Lario Triangle from Asso to Nesso, last section ended at Peppo’s Bar in Pognana Lario, Follow The Como Companion on WordPress.com. This twelfth century church was established on a previous site of pagan worship and boasts a marvellous view of the lake from its patio. The downhill path leads you rapidly down through the woods, past an ancient water trough and past a further sanctuary until you come out of the woods with a view over the lake to Argegno with its cable car up to the village of Pigra. There is no actual beach here or a bar or trattoria unlike at Careno but the boats from the Navigazione do stop here at the Imbarcadero. View south over the lake as you emerge from the woods on the outskirts of Pognana. View across the lake to the section of the Antica Strada Regina which is constrained to follow the main road from Brienno to Argegno due to the steepness of the mountains. Como's local English language newsletter for residents and visitors. There are so many chestnut trees within these woods that it can seem in October as if you are walking on a continuous carpet of the spiny chestnut burrs. Here the uphill sections require a degree of patience and fortitude but these virtues do bring their own reward with the discovery of the secret heaven that is Careno and the better known and equally glorious lakefront at Nesso. View across to Argegno and the start of the Valle Intelvi on the opposite shore. Required fields are marked *. Visit the old hamlet by travelling along the Strada Regia, on a 48 miles road from Como to Bellagio both pedestrian and suitable for cycle. This section takes you up above the noise of the main road and then along a line of semi-cultivated terracing. This walk represents the final stage in the Strada Regia’s route from Como to Bellagio, or, to be more precise, from Brunate to Lezzeno since the path officially ends at Lezzeno’s Ponte del Diavolo, three kilometres short of Bellagio itself. Built to last – dry stone walls from Moltrasio stone, Built to last – dry stone walls from Moltrasio stone define terraces that are still well maintained in parts. Visit the old hamlet by travelling along the Strada Regia, on a 48 miles road from Como to Bellagio  both pedestrian and suitable for cycle. Lake Como Tourism is the commercial tourist portal of the Lake Como area. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. On the edge of Pognana, the Strada Regia offers you a choice – take the left fork or live to regret it! Firstly we take the old mule paths and cobbled streets through the centre of Nesso before crossing the main road and climbing up onto the terraces. Walk along this road in the direction of Bellagio for about 100 metres until you come to a pedestrian crossing. Walking north from here, turn off as soon as you see a turning on the right with a sign to the Romanesque church of San Miro. Disused and abandoned buildings like this indicate the dramatic change from agricultural to industrial employment after the last war. You are now leaving the town of Nesso and the main road behind you as you join the second section of the walk. It once was a junction of mule tracks which connected both   settlements and people. From Lenno, you can either take the boat or a bus back to Como or Bellagio but I decided to walk back to Pognana to check out that section of the walk I had missed out on in preference to passing by Careno. To eat I recommend walking back up  to the main road and stopping at the Hotel Tre Rose which, apart from a full menu, also offers an excellent value Menu del Giorno. The option offered by the left-hand fork is to descend down to the small lakeside town of Careno prior to then ascending a mountain road prior to a further descent to the lakeside at Nesso. Turn left at the signs here off Via dei Monti to end the seemingly relentless climb up towards Monte Cappon and start your descent to Nesso. In fact this walk seemed to be dotted with the occasional sanctuary or chapel in various states of order. Strada Regia: From Pognana to Nesso (and back) Bell tower of San Martino Church, Careno with Laglio on the other side of the lake. Then take the 340 steps staircase running next to the small houses overlooking the lake…and get ready to discover a little bit of heaven right there! Torno and the Mystery of the Pietra Pendula. Ancient terraces, woods, medieval villages with Romanesque churches and iconic lakeside locations – this tract of the Strada Regia has it all. This then gives way to a prolonged stretch of dense woods walking at this time of the year (October) over a carpet of sweet chestnut burrs, the occasional mushroom and wild cyclamen. Having passed by a sanctuary and then descending down to a quarry on the main road, (presumably the source of the material used in the dry stone walls) after 100 metres  I turned down Via del Pero to get down to the lakefront at Careno. Obviously the views over to the other side of the lake are now rare but the woods themselves offer many compensatory pleasures. I therefore retraced my path past the Castello di Nesso and up into the woods noting this time some examples of naïve religious art along the way. Here again to my relief, the sign for the Strada Regia led me off the uphill path to walk on the flat through untended ancient terraces until it started its descent to Pognana. Questo percorso pedonale, in passato reticolo di mulattiere, è ben segnalato, lungo circa 30 km, perfetto per il trekking ed è adatto anche per una bella pedalata in mountain bike. As you come back down towards the level of the main road, you pass by the ruins of Nesso castle with a view to your right of the impressive waterfalls known as the Orrido di Nesso. The mountain community just below the summit of Monte Cappon in the string of mountains known as Monti Careno. This next section, after a brief climb, flattens out to follow the line of the old terraces with spectacular views over to the other side of the lake. The ‘spiaggia’ or beach at Careno, just below the Romanesque church of San Martino. Your email address will not be published. In fact it was with some relief that the path finally opened up into the managed terraces on the edge of Pognana offering a breathtaking and welcome view southwards down the lake. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. The downhill section was steep in parts making me thankful that I had not chosen this route in preference to the Careno option back near the start of the day. After turning left we go along the road towards Molina up to the bridge over the Stravalle stream. I hear now of ‘rewilding’ schemes in some agricultural areas of the UK but Lake Como went through its ‘rewilding’ unconsciously about seventy years ago as generations abandoned working the land. Como’s Magic Light Festival – Citta dei Balocchi 2016/17, Lenno and Villa Balbianello in Early Spring, Sentee di Sort (From Rovenna to Moltrasio), A Walk in the Cosia Valley and Camnago Volta, Argegno to Argegno: Up and Down the Telo Valley, Brienno’s Botanic Path – Sentiero Botanico, Civiglio to Civiglio: A Circular Walk on the Slopes of Mount Uccellera, Climbing Monte Bisbino – Como’s Local Mountain, Intrepid Exploration: Brienno to Laglio on the Via Regina, Parco Spina Verde: Walking the Border Back to Como, Quick Walks out of Como 1: San Donato – Garzola, Quick Walks out of Como 2: Parco Spina Verde, San Donato to Camnago Volta: Opening up a Circular Route to and from Como, San Fermo to Como – in the footsteps of Garibaldi, Strada Regia: From Pognana to Nesso (and back), Walking the Greenway and the Antica Via Regina, Walking the Lario Triangle from Asso to Nesso, Follow The Como Companion on WordPress.com. In this section, the terracing is still very evident and maintained in parts for fruit and olive trees. This walk represents the final stage in the Strada Regia’s route from Como to Bellagio, or, to be more precise, from Brunate to Lezzeno since the path officially ends at Lezzeno’s Ponte … I took this second option and soon found myself walking on a pleasant level path through well-tended terraces reminiscent of how much of the area would have looked like as recently as the 1950s before most of the lakeside agriculture was abandoned. La Strada Regia è un percorso lungo la sponda orientale del ramo del Lago di Como, tra il capoluogo e Bellagio. As with Careno, it is well worth going down to the lakeside at Nesso to view its famous bridge and take a dip in the the lake. This is the point where you keep to your left to pass in front of the baitas rather than take the more developed path that continues to climb uphill. The path is orderly but the climb is steep so eventually you will undoubtedly meet the sign pointing you left and down towards Nesso with some relief. Other autumnal joys include wild cyclamen, and the green banks of moss and lichens returning after the heat of summer. From that moment, the extensive terracing which covered the hillsides all around Lake Como started to fall into decline, but the pattern of flat fertile strips divided by dry stone walls of Moltrasio stone is still more or less evident in those areas where the mountains don’t rise too steeply up from the lake. Every single hamlet among Lake Como area definitely worth a visit! 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At the port take the uphill path leading north and follow it until it joins the cobbled street Via Borgonuovo which leads down to the parish church of St. Peter and St. Paul. To further complicate options, you can start off the walk in Nesso by immediately taking a steep walk up by the Municipal building following the normal Strada Regia signs passing through the quarter called Vico. Start of the lower level option of the Strada Regia from Nesso to Lezzeno. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! As I rejoined the Via dei Monti I continued to climb upwards towards the mountain community just below the summit of Mount Cappon. By coach- coach C30 STRADA REGIA FROM NESSO TO LEZZENO ITINERARY NESSO, LEZZENO, DEVIL’S BRIDGE FROM STRADA REGIA TOTAL TIME HOURS: 2.40 ALTITUDE GAP: 150 m. DIFFICULTY: easy SIGNPOSTS: white/brown road signs with the indication “Strada Regia” CONNECTIONS: by boat- from Como to Nesso.

strada regia nesso

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